"More you spend time on ocean in and out and more you know him.
This is my home spot where i swim, surf, bodysurf. We call this "dolphin surf" because you use the pipe suction of the wave like the seals or the dolphins use it to play with the wave. You go so fast that you can see on some footage the "skin distorsion"
Enjoy it. Here the link who's worlwide share since yesterday on some US website like SHOCK MANSION. Second video from the left.